Christophe Claret – who has been producing some of the most complex watch movements for 20 years, for both himself and others – has long absorbed influences and embraced the march of technology to produce some of the most elaborate and boundary-pushing movements around.
Inside of the Cartier Rotonde Mystery watch is an in-house made caliber 9981 MC manually wound movement that is made up of 158 parts and operates at 21,800 bph. It has a power reserve of 48 hours, and is just 4.61mm thick. The entire Cartier watch is just 11.6mm thick. Overall relatively slim for what it is a nice movement. On the rear of the watch you can see the movement in its entirety. The challenge for a movement such as this is moving the relatively heavy discs which can effect accuracy tremendously.
One of the most interesting aspects of the show is being able to understand what technology or material is really becoming popular and mass produced. For example, last year we started to see lots of GPS watches and knew that their dominance over traditional atomic clock radio signal watches was coming. We covered the 2012 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair here. We look forward to seeing what manufacturers are keen on producing for 2013 at the upcoming show. While many of the brands we will see are mainly distributed in Asia, these are also many of the same companies that produce a lot of the timepieces sold in America and the rest of the world.
Oliver Ike, the man behind Ikepod, recently made headlines for resurrecting the A. Manzoni & Fils brand and launching a Kickstarter campaign. His new A. Manzoni & Fils Canopus Planner watch is easily one of most costly watches on Kickstarter, requiring backers to cough up 00. Find out more about the Canopus Planner watch and his plans for the A. Manzoni & Fils brand in our interview.
If you plan on attending the event for the Proximity, our address is listed below...
One the most enduringly popular watch designs, its popularity is in no small part due to its distinctly refined Art deco aesthetic, something which has been present in all of its 250 plus model variations.
Pilot watches grew on me over the last couple of years. I have always been such an avid dive watch fan, that I paid less attention to pilot watches. Having experienced more of them and speaking to impassioned actual pilots who love watches, I have become a lot more interested in the breed. Like dive watches, pilot watches come in a range of styles and forms. Ones like the Big Pilot are meant to be inspired by airplane cockpit instruments. Plus, IWC does have a real history in making watches for aviators. Classic pilot watches were really large - so this piece fits that tradition. They were also meant to be really easy to read. Again, another thing the IWC Big Pilot excels at. If you have problematic vision, the Big Pilot offers a very clear dial with high contrast hands and hour markers for really fantastic legibility.
As is the case with most new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches, these are difficult to photograph. That is due to the polished elements mixed with the slightly glossy black dial. Mediocre images aside, the PO GMT is a great looking watch. At launch, Omega does not disappoint by offering most of the color tones that people appreciate in the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean collection.
A few hallmarks of the brand are particularly interesting and they include use of modern materials such as sapphire bridges and silicon parts, beautiful hand-engraved elements such as the automatic rotors, and attractive yet contemporary designs. DeMonaco watches feel like a satisfying combination of both traditional watch making values but modern luxury sensibility. These watches aren't for everyone with their high-end positioning and exclusive production, but they should be on your horological radar.
I am truly obsessed with vintage wristwatches. I lust after them, read about them, collect them, and wear them with pride. I think for the most part, many in the aforementioned groups respect them as well. Whether your taste runs to steel diving watches or a diamond studded grand complications, they represent the origins of all that we love.
Of the watches they cover, the 657 is by far my favorite - a classic three-hand aviator with a 60-click bezel, powered by the workhorse ETA 2824-2. It just has perfectly clean styling, and the dial offers up a great feature I wish more brands had. The date display shows up between 4- and 5-o'clock, and they've rotated the numerals 45 degrees, so it reads level to the horizon. Necessary? Absolutely not, but it is great evidence of attention to detail.
So, PVD is a coating, while plating is... well, a plating. Gold-plated metal is usually steel with real gold plated over it. A layer of gold, measured in microns (the thickness varies of course) is plated to metal to offer the look of gold at a lower cost. Gold-plating is more rare in watches these days because PVD gold has some advantages, but not all of them. A good gold-plated case can actually appear to look more like solid gold that many PVD coatings. Why? Well because it is really gold. The weakness is that overtime lots of rubbing can wear gold plating down, or scratches can reveal the base material.
In order to understand how we came to this point in horological history, we must first start at the beginning, to the very first complications.
I imagine that in time, NOMOS could offer a customization feature for the airport code ring such that a customer could chose different cities for each timezone since clearly while some international cities like NYC, LON, HKG, TYO, or SYD, are no-brainer choices for all, it might be useful for someone living in the Middle-East to have cities nearby listed instead for some timezones.
Beyond the effects of mere quantitative expansion, there was something else going on as well. I remember that after my first encounter and following some devoted research regarding single-axis “tourbies”, I had to face that on many occasions, the source of these wonderful calibers are not the manufactures themselves. In my view, such a realization should either discourage, or – if there’s enough fire left to remain zealous, then – motivate those previously interested to seek out other solutions, to find out if there’s more to that object of worship. If you are reading this, I believe I can say with confidence that you belong to the latter group of individuals and hence are about to delve into the details of one of the most spectacular and ingenious solutions ever found to spice up Breguet’s two-centuries old twist on timekeeping.
2013 will add another 2,500 Hublot Big Bang Ferrari watches into the wild. Hublot is and should be proud of the accomplishment. While the relationship with Ferrari is still relatively fresh, it seems to be going better than Ferrari watches we have seen in the past. On top of that, the timepieces are still very cool whether or not you care at all about the Ferrari relationship - which is saying a lot when a timepiece (or any other product for that matter) has dual-branding on it. Prices for the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari watches are ,800 for the Ceramic model, ,100 for the Red Magic Carbon model, and ,600 for the King Gold Carbon model. hublot.com
Well, the fact that this review exists obviously tells you that this watch has made the grade and gotten past my filter. I'm willing to hazard a guess that because this has happened, this watch will be a strong seller for Technomarine.
This is a considerable announcement as there is currently no heir apparent to the ETA throne of mass supply to third parties. Sellita is more or less the major hopeful, but their capacity has been quickly bought up. While ETA movements will not disappear completely, the restricted availability has increased prices and will see many manufactures, both big and small, looking for new solutions. Eterna is a fitting choice as the brand's history stretches back to 1856 and they pioneered both the Eterna-Matic (a watch with a ball bearing-equipped rotor) and the first mass produced watch with an alarm feature.