XN: The Concept piece is way above my means, and it’s good it is. It will always remain the grail.
The Hour Glass: Though we represent around 20 brands at the Sydney boutique, we are largely known for Rolex and Patek Philippe. It is difficult to pin down one particular model to represent the city, I would say a professional sport timepiece would be the most appropriate type of watch to represent Sydney. thehourglass.com
Safes play a subservient role most of the time. They are heavy, cold, uniform and (mostly) uninteresting objects which only serve to protect the rare, the unique, the brittle and the priceless that is stored inside. The problem this creates is the stark contrast between the aesthetics, the sentiment and the general 'mood' represented by ordinary safes and the invaluable objects which they are meant to keep secure. In other words, ordinary safes scarcely match the levels of refinement that is seen in high-end timepieces and nor do they fit the styling of a luxury apartment's bedroom... and who wants to stroll around his or her mansion only to pick up the watch for the day from an overprotected cupboard hidden away somewhere in the basement?
H. Moser & Cie.’s Perpetual Calendar watch is truly unlike any other watch with the same complication, as a simple glance at the dial will tell you. For a watch with a perpetual calendar complication, the dial is remarkable clean, simple and highly legible. For those who are unfamiliar with this piece, here is how it works: the date is obviously at three o’clock; while the month is told off the little hand which points to the hours, indicating which month of the year it is; finally, the leap year indication is on the reverse side on the movement itself. Is there another watch with the same complication that is easier to read? I think not.
Something that is easy to see and enjoyable in the in-house made and designed caliber DTC07 movement is the cylindrical balance spring. Unlike most normal "flat" balance (hair) springs, the one in the Maestoso is more three-dimensional and shaped like a cylinder. There are various advantages for this and a major reason they aren't used more is that they are not only difficult to produce, but the simple fact that cylindrical balance springs take up a lot more space than flat ones. While high-end watches today like to play with historic watch mechanics, we should not forget the principle goal of all wrist watches from the beginning was successfully miniaturizing clocks and pocket watches into not only a smaller space, but also a mobile space that needed to put up with shock and motion.
The funny thing about many of the different Panerai case styles is that they wear differently and cannot be judged by the size alone. For instance, a 44mm wide Luminor 1950 case will wear larger than this 47mm wide Radiomir 1940 case. Why? Well a major reason has to do with the relatively flat caseback. The exhibition caseback window on the PAM514 is thin and allows for the watch to sit with a much lower profile than some of Panerai's taller fare.
Another cost saving measure is the strap, which isn't terrible, but the first thing I thought when getting the watch was "this would be so much better on a different strap." Why? Well, the strap is a bit stiff, and given the large size of the case, you really want a strap that wraps around your wrist with ease all the time. If you really want to upgrade the look and feel of the Bulova Precisionist Wilton Chronograph, I recommend getting an aftermarket strap (which is large at 23mm wide).
When looking for something simple, clean, and Germanic, I have to say that I am much more drawn to designs such as this than say, the popular Bauhaus look that people look for at Nomos. The neighborhood competitors make a fine watch, but it is difficult to beat the sheer functional DNA that a piece like the M 29 Small Second watch has. I don't even think pieces were ready by the time these pictures were released. Look closely and it appears that someone took an image of the standard M 29 with a central seconds hand and digitally changed it to make space for the subsidiary seconds (small second) hand.
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5.The watch gets meticulously restored.
Long after forgetting about this watch, I received an email from Ariel Adams that I was the winner. I couldn't Google fast enough to see which watch that I had won. I said to myself, " Oh yeah, I remember that watch". So, I started learning as much as I could about this watch. And before the excitement wore off, I was in love with it. So, now the wait began. Mark Carson was away from his home on the Hawaiian Islands, where the watch was designed and assembled and it took almost two weeks to make it to my wrist. To make up for the wait Mark sent me one of his expensive Koa Wood Rollerball pens. I was very impressed by the gift and its quality and the communication from Mark was top notch.
While I've been content (so far) to view the vintage watch world from afar, I do have a soft spot in my heart for watches that draw direct inspiration from an earlier model in a company's history. Just recently, Mühle-Glashütte introduced a watch in that very vein - the M29 Classic, and I quite like it. More good news is that price is pretty good for a Muhle Glashutte timepiece.
The Vicenterra GMT-3 Volume 2 is amazing in that it allows us to have a unique view on the planet that we live on, depicting this heart-warmingly beautiful celestial body as a tiny rotating globe. Its proprietary movement module couples this rather unusual display with a GMT subdial, a day-night indicator, and also a retrograde date – all the while remaining easily legible. And although it is certainly not cheap, when compared to other offerings with similar features, the Vicenterra GMT-3 Volume 2 retains a relatively moderate price point. Let's discover the details of this quite unusual package.
In a 42mm wide case available in 18k white gold (with blue dial), 18k pink gold (with white dial), or in steel (with white dial), the Rotonde de Cartier 2 Times Zones Retrograde, Day & Night, Large Date, Small Second watch is a prime example of a Cartier Small Complication model, as it offers information in addition to the time in an interesting way that blends complexity with refinement.
All this protects the movement inside, which is the Selitta SW200-1 automatic. While not an in-house movement, Mühle has modified the movement to include a woodpecker neck regulation, as well as a signed rotor and their signature finishes on various components within the movement.
Seeing as the Tropik is a dive watch and I needed an excuse to book my next diving certification course, I took the Tropik diving in the unbelievably cold waters of Vancouver early this past December. With the air temperature around -5 C (23F) and the water temp (at depth) around 3 C (37F), this was no walk in the park for me but the Halios shrugged off the cold and performed admirably.
Hublot hasn't given us the size of the case, but as you can see this isn't a small watch. Nor is it unwearable either. The cushion-shaped case is very interesting, and a new design in what is still relatively pure Hublot DNA. The case detailing is really interesting, and does offer the illusion of looking into the portal of a machine. The case is produced from titanium, and you can see the iconic Hublot "H" screws used in the corners of the case. Further, the Antikythera SunMoon is also known as the Hublot MP-08, as it is part of their "Masterpiece" watch collection.
ABTW: What would you tell watch lovers in other cities that watch lovers in Sydney are like?